ITINERARY:
Day 01:
Move to nevado Pisco morrena camp (4,900m).
The walk to Pisco base camp can be steep and difficult in the warm mid-day sun so an early start would be advisable. The small trees and forests provide some cool shade until the altitude provides a coolness of its own. The path meanders from the valley floor, crossing several rivers, before ascending the hillside. Finally, the sparse trees give way to an open valley at the head of which we will find the base camp and refuge "Peru".
The head of the valley is dominated by a large moraine, which bounds the right flank of the Huandoy glacier.
The path will now take us straight up the steep moraine. Once on the crest, we shall walk along the top facing towards Huandoy before descending steeply down the other side and on to the boulder covered glacier below. There are many footpaths marked by "hitos" that lead across the glacier to the far side. Morrena camp is located amongst boulders beside a small mountain lake at the tip of the Pisco glacier. Time: 4 to 6 hours, from Cebollapampa.
Day 02:
03 a.m start the ascent to the summit. We will gain the glacier just beyond the lake and follow it without difficulty to the Huandoy-Pisco Col (5,350m). From here, the route climbs broad slopes towards the summit. Although never steep (up to 35°), we will need to be careful in picking our route through crevasses and over snow bridges before approaching the final summit section. Here we may encounter the steepest snow slope, a short pitch of 40°, before pulling on to the summit. Our ascent will be rewarded by absolutely brilliant views, especially of Chacraraju and Huascaran, our next objective. Return to base camp.
Day 03:
Descent to Cebollapampa and return to Huaraz.
Day 04:
It will be to rest in Huaraz.
Ascent To Alpamayo.
Before starting the ascent at the mountain, we Hill rest in Huaraz in order to organize everything for the climbing.
Day 05:
Leaving early we drive to the northern end of the range to the town of Cashapampa (2,800 m.). This is where we begin the two day trek to Base Camp. After loading our gear on burros, we set out carrying only light day packs. We enter the valley of the Rio Santa Cruz, narrow at its entrance but widening as we climb further into the range.
After about a 6 hour walk (including breaks) we arrive at our first camp, Jatuncocha lakeat 3,900m.
Day 07:
The second day of the trip we finish our trek into Base Camp. Alpamayo's Base Camp is located at 4,800 m. just at the highest trees in the Arhuaycocha Valley, a tributary to the Santa Cruz to the south. Here, we are surrounded by impressive peaks, Alpamayo, Quiitaraju, Pucahirca and Artesonraju.
Day 08:
Move up to Moraine Camp near the edge of the glacier at about 5,000 m. feet.
We move to high camp, located in the col between Alpamayo and Quitaraju at 5,200 m.
Day 09:
Alpamayo summit climb. An alpine start is appropriate here. We will time our departure to arrive at the bergschrund "rimaya", where the difficult climbing begins, at first light. Normally we arrive on the summit around 9 to 10 am, and are back at our high camp between 1 to 4 pm.
The route is through "Canaleta Ferrari" - 300 m. 55 - 70 °
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